接下来便是炒制。将余下的柏树灰倒入大锅,燃火,把灰烧热,放入在灰堆里睡饱了的灰豆腐,慢慢翻炒。我曾见过母亲炒制灰豆腐。锅铲在她手里,就像一条乌鱼在柏树灰与豆腐之间穿梭。伴随着此起彼伏的“噗噗”声响,豆腐在滚烫的柏树灰中逐渐鼓胀、圆润,方正紧实的豆腐块不一会儿就变成肥嘟嘟糯叽叽的豆腐果了。灰豆腐炒制完成,母亲的头上、肩上,也落满了细细的柏树灰。
Photograph: Simon Hill
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